HEnk Van Nieuwenhove is a veteran Flemish journalist from the city of Mechelen, Belgium. Over five days in June 2022, he had the good fortune to travel through almost all of Extremadura. He moved from south to north on a trip organised and coordinated by two of Spain's Cultural Routes (Vía de la Plata Route and the The Emperor Charles V's Routes) in collaboration with the Overseas Tourism Office of Turespaña in Belgium. Henk started his journey in the capital of Cáceres and, over five days, travelled along the old Vía de la Plata route until he entered the domains that served as Emperor Charles V's retirement place.
- How did a Belgian (let's remember his native country is eminently flat; its highest mountain barely reaches 690 metres above sea level and the Belgian landscape is covered by a mantle of green meadows with large patches of forest) experience a tour through the Extremadura of the dehesas and the sierras during a sweltering heatwave? What did he think of that corner of Spain before his experience and what does he think now? Do you want to know what Charles V's favourite beer was or, more importantly, what sensations the Belgian journalist experienced when tasting the Torta del Casar for the first time? With you all, Henk Van Nieuwenhove.
Hello Henk, it's a pleasure to greet you, was it your first time visiting that part of Spain?
No, it's the second time. The first time was 25 years ago, with my family. I really liked the charming towns like Cáceres, Mérida, or Badajoz, the black Iberian pigs, the cork oaks, the landscapes, the simple life in the countryside, the sun…
What was your perception of Extremadura before your visit?
A region that has known a notable history and played a very important role in Europe.
Now that you know it a little better, what is Extremadura like through the eyes of a Belgian?
As one of the most authentic regions in Spain. When you travel through it, it's very easy not to feel like a tourist and to live life as it is. I was surprised by all those small villages where you can still see the imprint of the culture, history, and that era when Extremadura was one of the most important regions in Spain.
Besides (and this is very important for Belgian travellers) there are very close links between our two countries thanks to Charles V, who was born in Ghent (Flanders) and died in Yuste.
Extremadura is like a hidden pearl that has retained all its charm (and seduces anyone lucky enough to find it).
What has surprised you the most in terms of heritage?
Undeniably: the diversity of cultures that can be seen in all the cities through their monuments. Within a few kilometres, there are traces (and monuments) of Romans, Visigoths, Moors… even from prehistory!
I was particularly impressed that one of the oldest known chalk drawings in the world was found in Extremadura, in Maltravieso, dating back 70,000 years. Extremadura has an incredible and little-known cultural richness.
What landscape features have seduced you?
I was deeply moved by the incredible beauty of Monfragüe National Park and the life around the two rivers (the Tagus and the Tietar) with all those vultures and eagles dominating the sky. Thanks to the guide who showed it to me, I was able to experience the park and all the emotions that nature evokes: a very special moment was seeing, at a very short distance, a doe with her fawn.
I was also struck by the diversity of landscapes throughout the region, something you experience very intensely when driving alone. Within a few kilometres, you go from vast plains with olive and cork trees under a scorching sun to mountains where it’s possible to ski in winter.
And in terms of gastronomy?
Oh dear! By now, almost everyone knows that Spanish gastronomy is one of the best in the world, with the added appeal of its regional diversity. However, Extremaduran gastronomy is very little known, apart from, obviously, the acorn-fed pata negra ham. During my trip, I discovered the diversity and originality of this cuisine and the gastronomic quality of Extremadura. And don't forget the wines and cheeses!Oh dear Again!
A historic moment in the journey of Flemish journalist Henk: his meeting with Emperor Charles V (also born in Flanders).In Northern Europe there's a rich cheesemaking tradition, with many varieties, all very much present in the daily diet. What did you think of Torta del Casar?
I didn't know Torta del Casar as, as far as I'm aware, it's not sold in Belgium. Luckily, I had the opportunity to visit a cheese factory in Casar de Cáceres and... what a pleasant surprise! After tasting several cheeses, at the end of the tasting, the famous Torta del Casar arrived. My goodness! What a pleasure to try this cheese, what a surprising sensation on the taste buds. I bought three to share with my family and friends with a glass of good Extremaduran wine, obviously!!!
Have you discovered any other traditional dishes that have surprised you?
I would like to highlight the high quality of the gastronomy, the diversity of the products, and, above all, the talent of the chefs who work miracles in the kitchen. Two of the dishes that surprised me the most were the garlic soup and the suckling pig shoulder. I was also surprised by the Extremaduran products created with those raw ingredients that the conquistadors brought from Latin America, such as paprika, for example.
Any particularly memorable experiences?
In Aldeanueva de la Vera, I had a gastronomic experience I will never forget. I had the great honour of being able to taste an imperial menu with His Imperial Highness, Charles V, in period costume. The menu was called ‘Imperial Hearths’. It was especially exciting to find even traces of Flemish cuisine that I've known since childhood, such as pork cheeks! The only difference is that we don't prepare them with wine, but with beer, and more specifically with Gouden Carolus, the beer from my native Mechelen. Incidentally, it is the same beer that Charles V loved and which has been chosen several times as the best in the world.
What town you've visited would you recommend?
All the towns and cities I've visited have had their charm, but there's one that has stolen my heart: Garganta la Olla (Cáceres) with all its legends. Are they true? It hardly matters: all those legends and stories give a tremendous charm to that picturesque town. I was also very struck by the festive life of places like Cáceres and Plasencia.
Given that Belgium is a very flat country and that part of Extremadura you visited is particularly mountainous, are there any roads you particularly enjoyed?
It’s very pleasant to drive and see constantly changing landscapes, and with very little traffic! If there’s one downside, it would be the 40ºC temperature, which those of us living in Northern Europe are not very accustomed to (Henk visited Extremadura during the heatwave in mid-June 2022, which saw historic records broken).
How is the figure of Charles I of Spain (or Emperor Charles V) viewed in the country where he lived?
For Belgian or Flemish travellers, the presence of Charles I in Extremadura is a great advantage. We are very proud that he was born in Ghent, that he was raised by his aunt Margaret of Austria, who, incidentally, had her palace in the city where I live: Mechelen. It was especially moving when, on this trip, I visited the cloister of Yuste, where the emperor died in 1558.
Is the Roman legacy in Spain known outside of Spain, comparable to the great monuments in Italy or France?
Honestly, I believe that the Roman history of Extremadura is little known in Belgium, as are the archaeological finds from prehistory. There's so much to discover! For example: the artistic treasures that enrich this region. And to give an example of something I've just discovered: the Monastery of Our Lady of Guadalupe holds magnificent paintings by Zurbarán, El Greco, Murillo, but also by great Flemish painters like Rubens, Gerard David and Daniel Seghers. It's impressive!
What is the current perception of tourist Spain in Belgium? Is it considered a sun and beach destination, or conversely, are the country's cultural tourism possibilities known?
It's no secret: most tourists are looking for beaches. Benidorm is well-known to Belgian tourists. However, there is also a very large group of Belgians who visit cities for their artistic and historical heritage, such as Madrid, Barcelona, Bilbao, Valencia or Seville.
I am sure that this same niche of Belgian tourists would be very interested in a trip of culture, nature and gastronomy in Extremadura, following in the footsteps of Emperor Charles V, whom they know so well.
Anything else to add, Henk?
Just wanted to say thank you to those who helped me find all these wonders during my trip: they were all great. Especially to Mr. Felipe Sánchez Barba, the mayor of Guadalupe, who guided me through the marvellous cloister, to Ruta Vía de la Plata, to Rutas del Emperador Carlos V and, in particular, to Nicole Lefevere-Ortiz who is doing a marvellous job in the Press Department of Tour of Spain in Brussels. Until next time! (Translator's note: Although the entire interview was conducted in French, Henk bids farewell with these words in Spanish).
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